Posts Tagged ‘charter’

The Yacht Insider: Cruising to Nice, in the South of France

Wednesday, July 14th, 2010

In high season, dock reservations must be made several weeks ahead.

The South of France, from St. Tropez to Monaco, is one of the most popular summer cruising destinations in the world. You can charter any type of yacht you’d like, from a bareboat sailboat to a mid-range catamaran or a luxury motoryacht, and spend your days cruising from port to port along the glamorous French Riviera.

Each port offers something different, from Monaco’s Grand Prix to the star-studded film festival at Cannes, but I’ve always been a fan of the city of Nice as a must-visit destination. From its morning market bursting with fresh fruits and vegetables to its historic old town shops and sprawling beach scenes, Nice offers a bit of something for all tastes.

As with any location in this region, the primary challenge of cruising into Nice is securing dockage in the port. I took the photograph accompanying this column in mid-May 2010, during a rainy week at what was barely the beginning of the cruising season—and already almost all of the berths in Nice were full. If you plan to visit during July and August, which is prime cruising weather, then you will need to make reservations several weeks in advance. And you will be competing for space against some of the largest motoryachts in the world, which likely will be offering the harbormaster thousands more euro per night when paying by LOA.

Your best bet is to send an e-mail, or call +33 (0) 8 20 42 55 55. The port does monitor VHF channel 9, but again, if you’re calling for a berth while you’re already on approach, you are likely to be disappointed.

You’re also likely to encounter tremendous ferry traffic, as Nice is a primary home base for day-trippers zipping to and from the French island of Corsica. (That’s actually a worthwhile adventure, if you start or end your cruising itinerary in Nice and want to add a few days in a hotel on Corsica to your vacation. Try for tickets with Corsica Ferries or SNCM.)

Once you secure a berth in the port at Nice, though, you may never want to leave. You will be within walking distance of the old town, the beaches, the casino, the stunning architecture and fountains, the shops, the restaurants, and all the specialty food stores your luggage can withstand.

I’m most likely to be found at the Cours Saleya Market, sampling freshly made fig nougat and olive tapenade. I’ll keep an eye out for you.

For additional information about chartering on the French Riviera, visit the Yachtworldcharters.com France page.

Cruising The Virgin Islands – Spanish, U.S. and British

Friday, July 9th, 2010
Dean-Barnes

Catamarans have opened up the charter market due to their stability and roominess. Photo: Dean Barnes

Springtime for us is synonymous with regatta season. Since the mid 1990s, we’ve annually migrated to Puerto Rico for the Puerto Rico Heineken International Regatta, back to home base in the U.S. Virgin Islands and St. Thomas for the International Rolex Regatta, and finally east to the British Virgin Island of Tortola for the BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival. This year, these must-do northern Caribbean regattas matched up in dates to create two weeks and three weekends of cruising and racing bliss in one of the best cruising grounds in the world.
The Virgin Islands lie in the easternmost Greater Antilles, a foursome of islands in the northern Caribbean sea that includes Cuba, Jamaica, Haiti and the Dominican Republic, and Puerto Rico. The cruising grounds span about 70 miles and include the Spanish Virgin Islands of Vieques and Culebra, the U.S. Virgin Islands primarily of St. Thomas and St. John, and British Virgin Islands including Jost Van Dyke, Tortola, Virgin Gorda and Anegada. The beauty of this destination is the line-of-sight navigation. There’s also a myriad of services available from direct air service from the U.S. and Europe (through San Juan) to numerous charter companies and provisioning and the opportunity to explore three unique cultural destinations all with white sand beaches, quiet anchorages and things to do from a wide range of water sports by day and partying at beach bars into the night.

Dean-Barnes

Puerto Rico now offers many bareboat or crewed yacht charters. Photo: Dean Barnes

CHARTER OPPORTUNITIES

It used to be tough to find a bareboat or crewed yacht in Puerto Rico to cruise the Spanish Virgin Islands. That’s all changing now thanks to the island’s governor signing into law last fall the Nautical Tourism Act of 2009. One of the provisions of this Act allows for tax-free purchase of vessels over 30 feet, if contracted for chartering with a Puerto Rico certified charter company for chartering at least six months of the year.

Jose Luis Rivera, Catalina and Dufour dealer for the Caribbean and Central America and owner of the new Nautifull charters and cruising club based in the new 162-slip marina at the Palmas del Mar Resort Community, on the island’s southeast coast, says, “We understand Puerto Rico to be currently the only U.S. jurisdiction offering this very attractive deal to promote “hotel rooms in the water” as we have named them. It also creates “tourist marinas” certification if they meet certain service and amenities requirements to properly serve transients and charterers effectively. Other tax and lodging-related benefits and prioritized financing are being negotiated and legislated at the moment.”

Nautifull’s fleet includes a Baltic 43, Dufour Performance 34 and Dufour Performance yachts. The company offers a mixed bag of customized sailing opportunities from learn-to-sail (U.S. Sailing Basic Keelboat, Bareboat Cruising and Coastal Passage Making and Bareboat) packages to overnight and 5- to 7-day bareboat or crewed charters with either USCG-certified captains only or captains and chefs. His company is also the exclusive operator for yacht charters out of the new plush W Retreat & Spa that opened on Vieques in April.

There are several bareboat and crewed charter companies in the U.S. and British Virgin Islands. These include operations such as CYOA, Island Yachts and Trawlers in Paradise based in St. Thomas, and the Moorings, Sunsail and Horizon Yacht Charters in Tortola. The Virgin Islands Charteryacht League and Charter Yacht Society (CYS) of the British Virgin Islands each have over 100 member yachts for crewed charters. Monohull, multihull and power yachts are all available.

A greater sophistication and number of amenities on board are what charter guests now demand and companies offer.

John Jacobs, owner of CYOA, based in St. Thomas’ Frenchtown Marina, says “That means, for example, roller furling jib and main, a full refrigerator and air conditioning, electric windlass, autopilot and chart plotters, with inflatable dinghy equipped with 15 HP engine.”

Dean-Barnes

St. Thomas offers world class racing and many charter options. Photo: Dean Barnes

Charter yachts are getting bigger.

Kathy Mullen, owner of Regency Yacht Charters and a director for Northrop and Johnson Yacht Sales, based in Tortola, British Virgin Islands, says, “A two person charter use to be 40 foot; now it’s 50 to 55-feet. A 50-foot multihull is now considered medium size. Big means 70 to 100 feet.”

Catamarans have opened up the charter market due to their stability and roominess.

Dick Schoonover, who manages the clearinghouse, CharterPort BVI, in Tortola, says, “It’s still all about catamarans for us, except that what you are seeing now is the advent of the cat-with-flybridge. I think the popularity of our 10 passenger Silhouette 76 cats has much to do with their flybridges – an amenity found on motoryachts – and is reflected in yachts as small as Lagoon 44s. The other thing that is new in cats is the master suite concept, taking up an entire hull rather than the typical catamaran layout – a cabin in each corner.”

The downturn in the economy has created other opportunities.

Janet Oliver, administrator at the CYS of the BVI, says, “half board charters are being offered. This means breakfast and lunch are included with dinner at guests’ expense ashore.”

More requests are coming in, says Erik Ackerson, executive director of the Virgin Islands Charteryacht League (VICL), based at Yacht Haven Grande, on St. Thomas, “for captain-only charters.”

The business costs of chartering have not gone down in this recessionary economy, thus lowered rates are not the norm. However, many crewed operators have started to add more value.

This has taken the form, says the VICL’s Ackerson, “of offering spa or beauty treatments, massage, tai chi, yoga, dive certification and sailing instruction.”

WHERE & WHEN TO GO

Weekend or week-long sailing itineraries are definitely more customized than cookie-cutter considering the sheer number of islands, islets and cays in the Virgin Islands.

Nautifull’s Rivera says about Puerto Rico, “You can sail northeast from Palmas to Cayo Santiago (Monkey Island) in about an hour and a half. It’s a nice anchorage and good for swimming, although you can’t go ashore because it is a sanctuary.”

The island is home to over 1200 free-roaming Rhesus monkeys.

Vieques is two to three hours east by sail.

Dean-Barnes

St. John's natural beauty creates a beautiful background for cruising. Photo: Dean Barnes

There are a steadily increasing number of charterers who want to cruise to Vieques and Culebra, says CYOA’s Jacobs. “We restrict these destinations to our newer vessels because these island’s don’t have the support services the U.S. and British Virgin Islands so. Both are spectacular for an entire week’s cruise or to combine with a sail to St. John and Tortola depending on time.”

The bioluminescent bay on Vieques is a big draw. Single celled organisms called dinoflagelates in the water produce the bioluminescence or ‘glow in the dark’ feature here.

Capt. Camille Vickers, who leads captain-only charters for CYOA, says, “There’s a good anchorage in the town of Esperanza and a tour company there that leads trips to Mosquito or the bioluminescent bay at night.”

North and east of Culebra, the 1-mile long island of Culebrita is rimmed with beaches. “There are to large tidal pools on the east side that are just like natural Jacuzzis. The water is very warm,” says Vickers.

In the U.S. Virgin Islands, the VICL’s Ackerson says, “Many people like to circumnavigate St. John. Mooring balls are available on a first-come, first-serve basis and the waters are pristine because two third of the island is national park.”

Further east in the BVI, CharterPort’s Schoonover adds, “There are several new projects out there. Scrub Island is now on-line, and there is a new resort planned for Anegada’s north shore, replacing the existing Sands hotel. White Bay on Jost van Dyke continues to grow with a wide range of beach bars and restaurants. It used to be Sandcastles, and that was it.”

Finally, anytime of year is great for chartering except the prime hurricane months of September and October.

High season, when charter companies are busiest, anchorages most crowded and regatta season is in full swing, spans from December through May. However, says the VICL’s Ackerson, “June, July and the beginning of August are very nice because this is usually when the weather is nicest and the sea is calm.”

Editor’s Note: For more information and charter listings in the area, visit the Yachtworldcharters.com Caribbean page.

Carol Bareuther has lived in St. Thomas since 1986 and has written about a wide range of marine topics in the Virgin Islands. She and photographer Dean Barnes have two children who grew up in the VI and have seawater in their blood.

Malta: A Charter Crossroads

Thursday, June 24th, 2010

As a sailing destination Malta, rightly, boasts its own importance due to its unrivalled geographical position at the crossroads of the Mediterranean. Nestled at the foot of Italy with Greece and Turkey to the east, Spain and to the Atlantic beyond to the west, its excellent protected harbours and well-serviced yacht marinas have made it an unequalled and popular yachting haven. Thousands of yachtsmen pass through these waters annually, and Malta provides the ultimate staging post, be it provisioning for a summer cruise in the Aegean, secure wintering for a yacht afloat or ashore, or relying on the local trade to undertake a total refit.

The Maltese archipelago consists of three islands: Malta, Gozo and Comino and lies virtually at the centre of the Mediterranean, with Malta 93km south of Sicily and 288km north of Africa. Malta is the largest island; the cultural, commercial and administrative centre, and throughout the ages has been at the centre of maritime activity in the Mediterranean. Gozo is the second largest island and is more rural, characterised by fishing, tourism, crafts and agriculture. Comino is largely uninhabited.

Since gaining independence in 1964 Malta has continued to be at the forefront of maritime activity. The Freeport, yachting, cruise liners and ship registration are amongst the activities that have grown substantially in the past few decades. With the proposed development of additional marinas, a new cruise liner terminal and the expansion of the Freeport, the future of maritime Malta looks set to expand. It would not be unreasonable to say that this is a future built on an ancient and solid tradition. When the islands were taken over by the British, the latter found a population attuned to a life bound to the sea as well as an infrastructure that complemented the requirements for their powerful navy. Not only were seamen employed with the Royal navy but rope makers, carpenters and sail makers made their skills available to the naval establishment on the island. The British developed and expanded the maritime services and structures that had been started by the Order of St John as well as establishing new ones such as the dry-docks and the massive breakwater at the mouth of the harbour. However it was not just the British that took advantage of the island’s strategic position. The locals invested in ships and trade and were also quick to exploit opportunities when these presented themselves.

There is one company that has been a recent mainstay of the Maltese marine sector. Founded in 1976 by Roland Darmanin Kissaun, S&D Yachts has a company motto “to deliver a top quality service with key focus on reliability’ and has gained an international reputation for being Malta’s leading yacht agent, broker and charter management company. Visiting yachtsmen have come to rely on the unrivalled service delivered by the experienced and dedicated staff whose customer service is second to none.

As the yachting sector worldwide has expanded, not only in the size of yachts being built today, but increasingly in the quantity and professional management, S&D Yachts has evolved in line with the industry, both on the island and with networks further afield. Organisational growth and restructuring as well as upgrading the operational facilities has ensured that S&D stays on top of the game and they now employ over 30 personnel in two centrally located premises in Malta to ensure delivery of an efficient service.

The company structure is divided into six distinct departments in order to service all aspects of a yachts requirements: Agency, Brokerage and Charter, Corporate Services, Yacht Repair Services, Chandlery and Product Distribution and Tunisia Yacht Services. Through these departments the company can offer a myriad of services making S&D Yachts a true one-stop shop for yachtsmen visiting Malta.

In order to extend the company services further, S&D Yachts networks with similar companies throughout the Mediterranean and across the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.

One of the mainstay activities of S&D Yachts is the brokerage and sales of new and used craft. Whether a sailing or a motor yacht, fibreglass, steel or wood, their comprehensive database of new and second-hand yachts includes a few interesting proposals worth considering, and working with a network of cooperating brokers they are able to find the ideal craft anywhere in the world to suit customer needs. S&D Yachts are also distributors for Dufour Yachts and Cranchi Yachts.

And if you would like to sail around the Maltese islands S&D Yachts also offers a full range of crewed luxury yachts for charter in some of the world’s most beautiful destinations. The company also provide a wide range of professional services. For instance, prospective boat owners could benefit from advantageous rates of EU VAT paid through Malta Yacht Leasing system, typically ranging from 6 per cent to 9 per cent effective tax rate. This facility is available for both new and used craft purchase. In addition Registration of Yachts under the Malta Flag is a simple and straightforward operation, and S&D Yachts can guide you through the process.

If you are visiting Malta, whatever your yachting requirements may be, feel free to drop into the offices of S&D. If you would like some more information prior to arrival, visit the S&D website.

Edtor’s Note:  For more information and charter listings, visit the Yachtworldcharters.com Mediterranean page.

SmartMoney Article Misleads Readers on Yacht Charter

Wednesday, June 23rd, 2010

SmartMoney article about yachts and cruise shipsFor a minute there, I was excited.

Heck, it’s an exciting thing to have a periodical as prominent as SmartMoney compare yacht charter against cruise ships. The magazine is part of the Wall Street Journal organization, has won three National Magazine Awards, and claims a circulation rate base of 800,000 people. That’s about 650,000 more people a month than read the largest-circulation U.S. boating magazines. It’s a major potential business boost to the great charter yachts available all over the world.

I was thrilled when I saw the headline “Ships: Out, Yachts: In” on Page 70 of the July issue. The subhead is: “More cruise vacationers are bypassing big-ship buffets and waterslides [sic] in favor of more intimate yacht-style sea trips. We look at the trade-offs.”

Yes, let’s finally see the benefits of yacht charter in black-and-white in a major magazine, I thought as I began reading. And then I turned the pages, growing more depressed by the word, until I threw the article into the trash with disgust.

Author Kristen Bellstrom not only fails to interview a single person involved in the actual crewed yacht charter industry, but also does a thorough job of proving that she doesn’t  even know the difference between a mini-cruise ship and a charter yacht. She falls into lockstep with the clever lingo of companies that use phrases like “yacht-style” in their marketing materials, all the while simply moving the cruise-ship business model of by-the-cabin bookings onto smaller ships to make them seem more personalized. As her industry expert, Bellstrom quotes a travel agent who refuses to book “small operations” because they lack consistency, with both the author and the travel agent apparently oblivious to the fact that there is an entire global industry of reputable charter brokers whose job is to inspect yachts, interview crew, and ensure standards higher than any cruise ship could ever hope to offer. One might imagine that an author writing a story of this nature might contact, oh, I don’t know, a company like Camper and Nicholsons International or Ocean Independence, each of which controls a fleet of more than 100 crewed charter yachts and strives for consistency and brand excellence. But no.

Most egregious to me, though, is that this SmartMoney article paints a portrait of charter yachts as boats where you book a cabin and then get stuck with a bunch of fellow passengers that you might hate. The very last sentence–the one left lingering in readers’ minds–is a quotation from a passenger who went on a 16-person boat full of strangers who ended up hostile toward one another. “You’re on a small boat,” the passenger says. “There’s just no way to get away from these people.”

Of course, on an actual crewed charter yacht, you cannot book just a single cabin. You book the whole boat, and you invite only the guests of your choosing. This fact, too, appears to be lost on the author and, most unfortunately, the reader.

This type of incomplete, misleading, and irresponsible publishing has serious consequences for the yacht charter industry. I learned of this article from my father, who is a SmartMoney subscriber. (The article does not appear to be viewable on the magazine’s website; all I can find is this series of links to mini-cruise ship companies under the headline “Benefits of Yacht Cruising.”) My father, after reading the article, told me that he thought it made a good point about people not wanting to get stuck on a little boat with passengers they dislike.

“Dad,” I reminded him, “don’t you remember when I arranged for our family to go on that 60-foot charter yacht? It was just us. Strangers aren’t invited when you charter a real yacht.”

“Oh yeah,” he replied. “That was a great trip. I wonder why the author of this article didn’t mention how that is possible.”

Exactly.

The Yacht Insider: Cruising Options on Ireland’s River Shannon

Wednesday, April 14th, 2010

Tired of the same old cruising scenery? Sea Sense, the powerboating school that offers women-only as well as couple’s courses, just announced that it will be holding class this fall on Ireland’s River Shannon. Six students will be welcomed aboard a 48-footer from Sept. 11-18, with the cruising itinerary to begin in the town of Shannon on Ireland’s west coast.

shannonboat

With top speed in the neighborhood of 3 to 5 miles per hour, there is plenty of time to appreciate the River Shannon scenery.

“These boats are different from what traditional boaters know,” said company founder Capt. Patti Moore. “They’re like houseboats, very simple to handle. They steer differently because they have governors on them to maintain speed limits. Yes, there is boat handling, and yes, there is some navigation required, but more than that it’s a great way to see a new area. You’re moving really slowly, and it feels like cruising through the middle of a postcard.”

shannonpub

River cruises take you from one village to the next, where the pubs are a family gathering spot.

I’ve done canal cruising in Burgundy, France, which to me felt like being on a Disney World ride. It’s slow, the boat follows a one-way path, and the scenery looks, well, enchanted.

I thought that Ireland’s River Shannon might be the same, but that’s not the case according to Debbie Petermann of Le Boat, which specializes in single-family and couples bareboat cruises not only on the River Shannon, but all across Europe.

shannondock

The best months for cruising are April through October.

“The River Shannon in Ireland is very different from the canals in France,” she told me. “The itinerary is on a river, not a canal with a towpath alongside the boat. It’s more about cruising from one little village to the next, places that have more pubs than people. It’s all families in the pubs, kids and grandma, the whole gang. So it’s great for family cruising. It’s just charming.”

Ireland itineraries that Le Boat promotes for weeklong cruising north or south of Shannon include 16 to 32 hours of cruising, which works out to a maximum of four and a half hours per day. Golf courses abound, as do parks and lakes that welcome dinghies full of eager anglers.

Petermann says river current is of minimal concern, as is wind, which I thought might be a challenge given the flat-bottom nature of the boats. The best months for cruising are April through October, and most boats take two to 12 people. Top speed is in the neighborhood of 3 to 5 miles per hour, a crawl even compared with most trawler yachts.
“It’s not about the speed,” Petermann says. “It’s about the place being so green and beautiful. The last time I was there, we drove from up top even when it was raining because we didn’t want to miss a thing.”

kim_kavin-headshotEditor’s Note: Kim Kavin is an award-winning writer, editor and photographer who specializes in marine travel. She is the author of six books including Dream Cruises: The Insider’s Guide to Private Yacht Vacations, is editor of the online yacht vacation magazine www.CharterWave.com, and writes the blog at www.BrokerageBoss.com.

Chartering Among the Dolphins: the Sea of Cortez

Thursday, March 25th, 2010
bajamoorings-474pc

The Moorings 474PC, a larger version of the author's 37 footer, is now available for charter in Baja.

It was absolutely, exquisitely, perfect. I was sitting on the flying bridge with my feet propped up on the rail, an icy cerveza at my elbow, watching the sun drift downward toward the distant mountains that looked like cardboard cutouts. The silence was absolute, if you didn’t count the occasional pop from the glowing charcoal in the barbecue on the transom, and I fancied I could hear the faint hiss from the wings of a hawk gliding on the ridge above our cove, no doubt looking for his own dinner.

The water was absolutely still, the air breathless after the warm afternoon, but the sun had no strength as it sank redly behind the jagged mountains. The only other boat in our anchorage had left at midday and, not counting the hawk, we had the cove to ourselves. It was a fitting end to an idyllic week: our chartered powerboat would be returned the next morning and, by late afternoon, we would be heading back to civilisation.

bajasunsetreflection

Sunset and its reflection, on the Sea of Cortez.

dIf your experience with bareboat cruising is a daily race against dozens of other boats to the next anchorage, which will probably be filled to brimming and churned by dinghies ferrying crews to a beach dotted with Styrofoam cups, well … think again. The Sea of Cortez may just be the last great unsullied cruising ground, but don’t dally because the word is getting out.

Less than two hours south of California by jet, Puerto Escondido is a good starting point to explore the Gulf of California, known to insiders as the Sea of Cortez. Two hundred miles north of Baja’s capital, La Paz, it offers several offshore islands to explore as well as a number of superb coves along the peninsula. We chose to take a 37’ powerboat, since she would give us the speed to sample the area without having to rely on the wind, which can be an iffy proposition in these parts. What we found were nearly empty anchorages, beaches that bear none of the ravages of civilisation, incredible fishing and perfect weather during our mid-May cruise.

We started at El Presidente Hotel in Loreto, a luxurious all-inclusive resort. The next morning, we were whisked to the charter base nearby. Because supermarkets don’t exist in Baja, the charter company provisions the boat for charterers, allowing them to tailor their desires by trading food before departure. Because of the vagaries of Mexican deliveries, you may find some surprises; ours was that a case of lemon-lime drink had been substituted for the Diet Coke we had ordered. On the other hand, the meats and fish were absolutely fresh and the Mexican wines were superb.

bajamoorings474mts

A radius of 25 miles from the charter base provided plenty of pleasant anchorages - and shells.

The charter briefing, using projected slides to show the cruising area, was extremely thorough and competent, the package of instructions and charts were more than we needed for the entire cruise, and the checkout on the boat was pleasant but comprehensive.

We’d heard about a pocket anchorage called Honeymoon Cove that holds only a single boat and headed there on our afternoon departure but, finding it already occupied, we moved 15 miles north along Isla Carmen to Puerto Ballandra, where we anchored with three cruising ketches. The cove, protected from all but westerly winds, which the locals say almost never blow, was calm as we grilled chicken on the mesquite coals, sipped pina coladas, and tucked in for the night. Naturally, that “rare” westerly popped up at 0100, making us pitch uneasily on the rode, but it died away before dawn.

The next morning, we were visited by Lou and Jeannie Corwin from Southern Cross, their pretty Angleman ketch that had been used to film the movie, “Overboard”. After exploring a deserted shark-fishing encampment ashore, we left mid-morning to head across the glassy waters to Isla Coronados. Along the way we were watched by seals and sea lions that seemed unafraid as we slid past.

Isla Coronados is a volcanic island with lovely sand beaches and a lava cone that radiates heat at high noon. After cruising slowly through the anchorage area, which held several other yachts, we went south to a separate bight and dropped the hook in 15’ of crystal clear water. Taking the dinghy ashore, we explored the volcanic rocks and then moved back to the more protected anchorage later.

As we prepared to anchor, another cruising skipper came alongside in a dinghy to suggest that if we waited, another boat would be leaving from a more desirable spot. It was the sort of cruising camaraderie that seems to have been lost in the more popular cruising grounds but still thrives in Baja.

A camp of Mexican fisherman was on one of the beaches, and there was a constant arrival and departure of their pongas, a local skiff. At dusk, the smooth water was constantly broken by the splash of fish and, at one point, the fish were so active that it sounded like water running. It was a noise to make an avid fisherman salivate.

On the following day, we explored a radius of perhaps 25 miles from the charter base. You don’t have to travel far to find pleasant anchorages, and our shell collection grew to cover the entire dinette.

Caleta de San Juanico is a spacious and protected bay known locally simply as Juanico. It is notable for weird rock formations and several all-weather nooks, as well as the “shrine” where yachtsmen have contributed rough-hewn artwork and carved signatures on an ever-growing monument to cruising.

The offshore side of Isla Carmen is called the “Painted Coast” for its multi-coloured cliffs. A Bahamas-style striped lighthouse guards the entrance to Salinas Bay. Originally a company town for harvesting the huge salt flats, all that remains is a ghost town of heat and glare as a reminder of the workers’ miserable existence. Rusted train tracks once carried the salt to a now-ruined wharf near a beached tugboat, and the only population other than the single guard is a squadron of red-necked turkey buzzards that watch over the decaying houses and church. A wrecked freighter offshore makes interesting diving, but the light breeze was building, turning the bay into a lee shore that encouraged our departure.

baja_harbor

Cruising camaraderie still thrives in Baja.

Honeymoon Cove was once again occupied, but we picked so-called “Cousteau’s Cove” a few hundred yards south, where Jacques Cousteau’s Calypso had once anchored for a filming session in Baja. A huge rock overlooks the cove, and Calypso’s helicopter used that as a natural landing pad. We snorkelled along the reef, amused by the colorful fish that would cluster inches from our masks to peer in at the invaders. At dusk, we found that Lou and Jeannie had brought Southern Cross into an unmarked but protected cove south of Honeymoon. They joined us for dinner when we discovered that we were overstocked with food and our boat was due for return the next morning.

As we prepared to leave the next day, Lou came past in his dinghy and asked us to stop by. We came alongside later and Jeannie, who is an inveterate and highly successful shell collector with many museum contributions, presented us with a rare olive shell as the crowning touch of our new collection.

The world needs more cruising areas like the Sea of Cortez, and more cruising friends like the Corwins.

Editor’s Note: For more information on charters in the Sea of Cortez, view the La Paz listings.

Report from Miami: Cautious Optimism

Wednesday, February 17th, 2010

Miami International Boat Show 2010

I’m just back from the Miami International Boat Show, where traffic on the docks was a bit light to my eye but reportedly composed of serious shoppers as opposed to tire kickers. I’d like to put what I heard about the charter market into broad context for you first, before diving into details farther below.

Leading mid-range and large-yacht builders such as U.S.-based Sea Ray and British-based Sunseeker told me that they were selling enough new boats to consider the show “good for the current economic climate.” That’s a heck of a lot better than their tune at this time last year, when sales were all but nonexistent.

The brokerage market, too, seemed to have an air of hope in Miami. I spoke with the captain of a 112-foot Westport who told me that his motoryacht was now the least-expensive for sale in its class and getting serious offers from potential buyers. That, to him, indicated that the brokerage market has hit bottom and may be starting to turn around. His sense jived with my conversations with multiple sales brokers, who argued that now is the time to snap up the best remaining deals, as the brokerage market is poised to begin a slow but likely rebound.

With all that said, the sense that I got from the half-dozen charter fleet managers I met in Miami is that the charter industry, too, may be experiencing cautious optimism for the first time in nearly 18 months. The market for crewed charter appears to still be mixed according to many specifics that I heard, but in general, charter brokers’ phones are ringing again.

I was told that a good number of the charter inquiries coming right now are for the Bahamas during next month’s Spring Break and the Easter holiday in April. In years past, those dates would have been booked months ago and current calls would be for “last-minute” charters during the summer in the Mediterranean, but, as the managers put it, at least the calls are coming.

In terms of pricing, every charter fleet manager I spoke with confirmed for me that price negotiations are the order of the day, and that perhaps as many as two-thirds of the charters being booked today are coming at negotiated price reductions, extra days aboard, or some combination of the two. Some yacht owners are refusing to negotiate their prices at all (and some are still finding clients who book boats at full price), but the yacht owners who are willing to negotiate appear to be giving at least 10 percent to 15 percent off published weekly base rates.

Other charter yacht owners are giving more, but as quietly as possible. Charter fleet managers at several companies told me about cases where discounts were given as high as 40 percent to 50 percent off published base rates, but qualified their statements by saying the circumstances were particular to the specific yachts and clients involved. In at least one case, the charter client was required to sign a confidentiality contract in order to receive the sizable discount.

What does all this mean for the upcoming high season in the Western Mediterranean? It’s hard to say. I’m keeping my ear to the ground.

Stay tuned.

The Yacht Insider: Questions Arise After Wicked New Year’s on St. Barth’s

Monday, January 11th, 2010

Captains aboard some of the world’s largest yachts were in emergency mode between December 28 and January 2, when the harbormaster at Gustavia Harbour on St. Barth’s closed the port because of nasty, dangerous swells that swamped the marina. Reports indicated that it took the better part of 10 hours for divers to untangle and free the anchors from yachts that lined the quay as the surge plowed in and battered the boats broadside. One captain told me that every yacht along the dock was rammed stern-to into the concrete at least once before getting out. Some yachts suffered more damage than others, according to the harbormaster.

st-barth-surge-2009

The incoming surge floods the quay at Gustavia Harbour where revelers in stilettos typically ring in the New Year. Photo courtesy of Ann E. McHorney of Select Yachts and The Sacks Group Yachting Professionals.

At least 30 of the yachts forced to anchor offshore were available for charter, with guests eagerly anticipating the annual New Year’s Eve festivities such as yacht-hopping and restaurant galas. Tabloids ran photographs of celebs like Lindsey Lohan arriving with hair mangled after what must have been a brutal dinghy ride through the surging waves. Other charter guests told me that a good number of parties were canceled, as some yacht crew had trouble safely delivering guests to the dock as waves crashed down upon them.

None of which sounds to me like a very pleasant way to spend a New Year’s charter—and raises the inevitable question of some clients wanting a refund. Christmas and New Year’s are the most expensive weeks of the year to book Caribbean charters, and having spent well more than $100,000 in some cases, clients are likely to feel that the yacht’s owner, if not Mother Nature herself, owes them a bit on the back end.

The reality of charter contracts, though, is that the clients are plain out of luck.

There sometimes are clauses that allow a captain to cancel a charter in the case of a named storm, such as a hurricane, but most charter contracts include a line that reads something like: “No warranty is made as to the suitability of weather.” Even if nasty swells force your yacht out of the one harbor you intended to visit on New Year’s Eve, you have no financial recourse.

It’s definitely something to keep in mind for next New Year’s, seeing as how the weather patterns that caused so much trouble this year at St. Barth’s tend to be annual in nature.

kim_kavin-headshotEditor’s Note: Kim Kavin is an award-winning writer, editor and photographer who specializes in marine travel. She is the author of six books including Dream Cruises: The Insider’s Guide to Private Yacht Vacations, is editor of the online yacht vacation magazine www.CharterWave.com, and writes the blog at www.BrokerageBoss.com.

Booking a Charter? Watch Brokerage Deals

Monday, December 28th, 2009
Ads on BrokerageBoss.com show drastic price cutting that could affect future charter reservations.

Stories on BrokerageBoss.com show drastic price cutting that could affect future charter reservations.

One of the most interesting comments I heard during Antigua’s industry-only charter yacht show came from Terry Hines, the charter marketing director for International Yacht Collection (and a longtime industry player whose views and insights I have learned to trust). Hines made the comment during a public presentation about recent changes to the MYBA charter contract that many reputable charter brokers send to their clients. While talking about future bookings and explaining how the MYBA contract protects charterers in the event of a yacht’s sale before a charter can commence, Hines quipped: “Every retail charter broker needs to be watching the brokerage markets very carefully right now.”

The comment was based on what she is seeing both within the International Yacht Collection yacht sales division and across the yachting industry as a whole: Some owners dramatically dropping the prices on their yachts for sale, hoping to find a buyer fast as the global recession lingers. Such sales, of course, could hinder or outright cancel any charters that are planned for dates after a new owner takes control of any given yacht.

Since I heard Hines’s comment two weeks ago, I have taken her advice and watched the brokerage markets carefully. And, as is usually the case, she has turned out to be absolutely correct.

Just this morning, the BrokerageNews blog reported that Merle Wood not only just signed the 191-foot motoryacht Islander for sale, but also immediately dropped the yacht’s asking price by $5 million, from $24.95 million to $19.5 million. Islander is currently being marketed for summer 2010 charter by Peter Insull.

Last week, I reported that RJC Yachts had dropped the asking price on the 147-foot motoryacht Aquasition by $1 million, to $12.9 million, while continuing to offer her for charter this winter. Also last week, BrokerageNews reported that Merle Wood had announced a sale price drop on the 102-foot charter motoryacht Liquidity, from $2.299 million to $1.695 million. On December 11, BrokerageNews reported that International Yacht Collection had announced a $1 million sale price drop on the 155-foot charter motoryacht One More Toy, now offered at $21.8 million.

For charter clients, I think this perspective on the interlinked charter and brokerage markets offers two smart lessons to be learned.

First, ask your charter broker whether the yacht he or she is currently recommending for your vacation is also for sale and, if so, whether there have been any recent announcements of price drops. That will help you understand whether the yacht’s owner is seriously trying to sell the yacht at the same time charters are being booked.

Second, take a hard look at any charter contract before you sign it, and make sure it gives you recourse in case the yacht’s owner sells the yacht before any travel dates that you book. The phrase “liquidated damages,” as I understand things from Hines’s presentation, is the key to ensuring that you are in fact protected.

On Discounts and Deals

Friday, December 18th, 2009

antigua-show-variety-2009 One of the things I heard a lot of talk about at last week’s Antigua charter yacht show was discounts. And not in the way I’ve been hearing about them during the past few months. As you know if you follow my blog, deals and discounted rates have been flooding the crewed charter market for a little more than a year now, as yacht owners try to adapt to the financial pressures of the continuing global recession. Brokers have been pushing for deeper and deeper discounts on behalf of charter clients, and though not all yacht owners have obliged, a good number have. The talk on the docks last week was different because, instead of all the brokers saying they wanted to negotiate the biggest discounts possible, I began to hear some brokers saying that if they saw a yacht offering more than a 15-percent discount, they would think twice before trying to book it for their client at all. One broker from Ocean Independence put it to me this way: “If the discount being offered is more than 15 percent, something is wrong. Either something is wrong with the boat that is making it desperate to charter, or the owner of the boat is desperate for money. Either of those things is bad for my charter client. I don’t want to send my clients onto boats that might be falling apart, or whose owner cannot stand financially behind the charter if something goes wrong.” I thought about this comment in the context of a conversation that I had with Capt. Warren East aboard the 73-foot sailing catamaran Wonderful, which has earned a strong reputation in the charter industry during the past few years (and which looks terrific following a recent makeover). Capt. East told me that his yacht has four weeks of charter booked for the upcoming Caribbean season, plus three inquiries for additional bookings. “That’s obviously not the level of business we have done in years past,” he said, “but we’re hanging on. The bigger problem is that we made so many concessions last year. We were chartering at nearly half price. We need to get the rates back up toward normal so that we can continue to maintain the boat to the expected standard, but now some of the brokers are coming back and wanting those same discounts. We can’t give them and still provide the same level of experience for the client.” This particular broker and this particular captain were discussing two sides of the same coin: quality. The past year in crewed yacht charter has been very much about clients trying to get more than they paid for. The coming year, I think, might turn out to be about ensuring that you actually get quality for your charter dollar or euro.